On Thursday 23rd December, I got up at 6.30 in the morning, and was already ‘on location’ at 9 o’clock – under the bridge arches near Tower Hill, London. The streets were freezing, empty – and only a tantalizing sign of a pig was promising that it would all be worth it…
St John’s bakery on Druid Street.
St John’s sourdough, mince pies, and, more than anything, those heavenly Eccles Cakes with caramel-burnt bottoms, a filling generous enough even by New Russians’ standard, drunk with soaked raisins – were waiting for me.
This is St John’s bakery proper (I do not believe singing praise to St John’s is necessary any longer, but in case you are unfamiliar with this ‘Nose to Tail’ London icon, see my review here); opened a couple of months ago, to cope with the growing demand of its two restaurants and a hotel soon to be open. The bakery is open to public too on Saturdays, where you can stock up on the most popular goods, sourdoughs, baguettes, custard doughnuts and, here I go again, those Eccles Cakes.
Maltby Street shops.
Quite handidly, the bakery sits in the little foodie gem, only recently being ‘uncovered’ by the foodie lot: Maltby Street (there are several streets that are linked to it in fact). Several famed companies, mostly known to Borough market crowd, have their warehouses under the arches here. They have, quite wisely I say, decided to open this place up for public a few months ago. Here are the ones I sampled on the day:
Topoloski sour cucumbers, method ‘traditional’.
Topoloski - Seasonal Polish produce, sourced directly from small producers.
Now, this stuff is different to your and mine Eastern European corner shop (not that there is much wrong with them, mind you..). They specialise in cured sausages (with juniper berries – oh, sublime), horseradish and – my recommendation – soured, pickled cucumbers.
Listen up now, my Slav friend – these are not the much hated sweet, spongy things coming out of most jars across London. This is ‘proper’ sour, crunchy stuff. Oh, I will so murder a few with a slice of pork terrine I’m soon to attempt..
Swiss cheeses.
Kase cheese – Swiss Cheese. with the above mentioned Eccles Cakes – a perfect 4 o’clocker. they do good pre-prepared fondue cheese mixes.
Monmouth Coffee: open for morning coffee and a croissant too.
Monmouth coffee – no need to introduce I’m sure – I have written of this fiercely good coffee company before. Here though is their main office, where they roast their coffees in massive metal machines, open for viewings. My recommendation – Kenyan Gethumbwini Thika district coffee, which I bought specifically for my Turkish coffee (very finely milled). They say it’s ‘bright’, I say it’s almost syrapy in consistency.
St John’s mince pies – pies, not patties.
There are a number of other small food companies open on Saturdays, such as Neal’s Yard famed cheeses, and exquisite Kernel (London) Brewery, fresh meats from Fern Verrow. there are many more..
I liked the atmosphere of the place – it’s still a real London underbelly, with metal scrap and second hand holes right next door, surrounded by Council houses. The tourist heaven of Tower Hill and London Dungeon are just some 10 mins away, but here no one knows….I bet this place will be heaving come spring and summer with our trendy foodie folk, so go now, whilst London belly seems cold and uninviting…
ps Some of the prices and offers are only available from the warehouses, and not from the stalls in the Borough..
Open: Saturdays 9am-2pm
Location: here
